The Norwegian weather and the best time of my life

 

In 1999 I was awarded a scholarship by the Research Council of Norway, and the following year I embarked on a Norwegian adventure as an international student in Trondheim.

When I arrived, in the middle of the winter, the roads where covered in snow, the temperature averaged 10 degrees below zero, the days were short and the nights long, the weather grayish and miserable, but surprisingly I had the time of my life.

However, when I speak about my Norwegian adventure to friends and acquaintances, and the great life I had, I often get a raised eyebrow and the following comment, ‘Really? How come? It is so dark and cold up there.’

‘That’s in the winter. The summer is warm and bright,’ but it is hard to changes people’s misconceptions.

Personally I think it is not the weather that stops people from doing things or enjoying life but their mind set.

In Trondheim I interacted with people from all over the world, found the woman of my dreams, improved my chess game, went fishing, discussed architecture in great detail, cruised the Fjords, discovered the meaning of reggae and jazz…  and so on and on… the weather was in fact dark and cold but it doesn’t mean I had to stay indoors watching television.

Norway became my highway to freedom but not just for me. Some of my friends are still living there.

It is true that one day I arrived home late at night, slept through the morning, and when I left my place to attend school the day was gone and it was dark again. But I don’t recall complaining about it, quite the opposite, I thought it was funny. Read my post about the 24 hours day light in Lofoten here for a different story about non ending daylight.

‘So… what made Trondheim so special? What was the secret?’ Is often the questions I get asked when someone is relatively convinced that I had in fact the time of my life in Norway.

When I think about the answer I admit there is a secret. This is more of a personal observation and you may have your personal thoughts on the matter. What I noticed was that most of the international students came to Trondheim for a brief period of time. Everyone arrived holding a return ticket on their hands. No wonder the attitude of most people I met was to enjoy the best they could, as time was short and the clock was ticking. Ideas to go out and do stuff were not answered with a boring and furtive sentence, ‘Oh, I don’t know… I thought about watching the survival show on television tonight,’ but rather with a loud, ‘oh yeah baby, let’s do it!’

I often think if I could go back in time I would happily replay the grayish and miserable days I experienced in Norway… Life is short, but no one seems to be in a rush to make the most out of it. But we were, when we were living up north in a place called Trondheim. We knew we were running out of time and there was no time to waste. Those are the days.

The Bei Lin Museum in Xi’an and one of the most important lessons of my life

 

In the summer of 2000 I became a registered architect. At the time I had only used half of my scholarship from the Research Council of Norway and keen to study further I enrolled in an architectural course hosted by the Xi’an University of Architecture and Technology, in Xi’an, China (via my Norwegian University). Little did I know the course would yield one of the most important lessons of my life.

The course assignment was to design an extension to the Bei Lin Museum in Xi’an. The existing building is a typical example of Chinese vernacular architecture. My approach was simple. I would not speak about the poetics of architecture, but rather design a practical building, as beautiful as I could, that would speak for itself.

As the course I was enrolling would make no contribution to my architectural degree, I decided to design the building in my own style, instead of trying to please my lecturers as I had done throughout my entire life at University.

For the first time in my life I worked passionately on my project.

When the presentation day arrived I was asked to do a brief introduction of my project to my colleagues and five lecturers, which I did it with great enthusiasm. ‘Thanks for listening, any questions?’ I said upon reaching the end. My lecturers questions were forthcoming.

‘Where is the main entrance?’ was their first question. I may have shown disdain when I answered as I thought it was quite obvious. However their following comment was something to worry about, ‘I don’t like it,’ and from that moment on, regardless of my arguments, my project was simply destroyed.

When the hammering was finished I left the room in shame.

During the night I avoided meeting my colleagues and went out with Norwegian friends instead. My colleagues in a sign of support found my whereabouts and joined the same venue. I was truly disturbed and not in a mood for talking and their presence didn’t really help to heal my discontentment.

For my colleagues my project was faulty since the lecturers knew better. Unfortunately I don’t have the means to prove them wrong. Surprisingly, the lecturers didn’t fail me. They were clearly just upset with something. It wasn’t lack of work as I had never worked so hard. Even today when I revisit my project I often think I did a good job trying to emulate professional architecture when I had no tacit experience as a student.

I think the real question here is if I did the right thing “sticking to my guns” considering the outcome. It was a bitter experience to work like a perfectionist and be awarded with a “just about” mark. By working passionately I came to understand that passion makes even the most mundane task seem interesting, but it doesn’t mean the feeling is contagious and your peers will share the enthusiasm.

But one thing is clear to me, if I had approached the course like so many times before I would just do well and forget about it later on; and when I think about all the buildings I have designed at the University, the Bei Lin Museum is the only one that I would be able to redraw, almost every single line, without seeing an original drawing. I can only assume that it was my passionate working attitude that glued my ideas, even the concept, to my mind.

Working passionately does pay dividends regardless of the outcome.

Lofoten – a place far, far away

 

In May 2000 I arrived in Bodø by train. From Bodø I took the ferry to Røst Island where I stayed three nights. I received a warm welcome from the owner of the hostel where I was staying and after that I was left alone to wonder around the island.

On the Island it was hard to find something interesting to do on a shoestring budget like I was apart from gazing at drying stockfish on racks and rocks. However, I was in Røst Island to see the 24 hours day light and that I could do for free.

And so, on the first day, the day came to dusk and stayed in dusk… at around 11pm rays of light still lingered.

Unfortunately the hostel was positioned on the east side of the island and it was quite hilly to get to the other side.

Adamant to see the exact position of the sun standing above the horizon line I walked along the main road (the only one) looking for a weak spot to bravely climb to the top and see the sunset.

Nature in Scandinavian is often breathtaking; and sweating and panting I eventually made it to the top. I was quite focused during my ascension, walking through nature so intense (do not confuse with dense) that I may have stumbled upon a Troll without noticing.

At the top I was lucky as nothing further was blocking my view. I am not going to write how beautiful the landscape was as I don’t want to sound corny, but it was indeed a good spot. The Norwegian Sea unfolded majestically in front of me.

I sat down. The sun was approaching the horizon line and I wondered if it would go below or stay above. The following sketch tries to capture the course of the sun as I came to see it at the wee hours of the day.

sun course in rost island

I think sometimes the impossible is possible. We are taught to believe life works around night and day and then suddenly I found myself in a place where it no longer holds true. The experience was disturbing. I spent the three nights in the island struggling to fall asleep and wondering what the heck Røst Island was.

I remember returning to Trondheim (where I was living at the time) and thinking Lofoten could well be the location for a science fiction book. These days I am grateful that Lofoten, in a subtle way, changed my perception of the world.

Unfortunately I didn’t have a camera with me when I visited Lofoten. I have found some amazing shots in this blog.

As I write this post I just noticed it is dark outside. The day came the dusk and then it was night. But not in Lofoten where life hinges about endless winter nights and endless summer days.